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Thread: gas gauge

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor05121 View Post
    I'm going to have to revoke everyone's posting rights if it contains the word "seafoam" anywhere in the post.

    OP, contrary to popular belief, dumping a magical substance known as "Seafoam" (which is nothing more than naphtha and mineral spirits) into your vehicle will not solve all its problems. Please don't even waste your money.

    Now, to actually make some progress: Your gas gauge is microprocessor controlled. Meaning the float in your tank sends an analog signal to the GEM, which then converts it to an electrical signal, which the electromagnet on the back of the gauge converts into moving the needle. Depending on your MY truck (99+), you can go into diagnostic mode on your cluster by holding down the reset button and turning the key to run, which will perform a gauge sweep. This will do two things: First, that will rule out one possibility OR it will go to show that there is a possibility you have water leaking into your GEM terminals, which the gas gauge is one of the known faults. Check for CELs, if you do get one, it should be P9202- Fuel Sending Unit Circuit Open. If this is the case, I can provide you with step by step instructions on how to get to the dash code to determine what the sending unit is sending to the GEM for fuel level readout. If this checks out, your next step would be to remove the bed and physically check the condition of the sending unit.

    Before you do ANY of this, I would for sure fill up the tank, and drive it until you are empty, at least once or twice.

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    I also forgot to ask: How long has this been going on? Ford has what are called "dummy gauges" in that they do not read true registry values. Our oil pressure, water temp, and voltage gauges all stay put even though the values on them change while driving. The fuel gauge is kind of the same in that it has slosh-prevention in that it reads from the sending unit every few minutes rather than seconds. That is why you will drive for 50 miles after a top-off before it moves, and if you park on an incline, it will take some time for it to read accurately after leveling out. So if this has happened just today, go drive for a few days and report back. Otherwise, keep driving until it is empty and top it off and report back.
    This makes my gas gauge so much more understandable lol. I wondered why it took like 40 miles after a fill-up to finally start changing.

  2. #12
    Da Professuh Raptor05121's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pockets View Post

    Oh and I forgot its throwing some code that has to do with the fuel air ratio or at least I believe that is what he said. Could that be causing the gas gauge to not work properly?
    No, but I would find someone with an OBDI scanner and figure out what code it is and get it fixed. Where is the vehicle coming from? The 91s are older and have less technology in them, do taking the bed off and removing the sending unit might be the ticket.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member pockets's Avatar
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    My buddy I'm buying the truck from is supposed to take the truck to the shop and have the code fixed this week. He was going to do it last week but never did. Cause it won't pass safety / emissions if it's not fixed

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    Taking the bed off shouldn't be to hard right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pockets View Post
    My buddy I'm buying the truck from is supposed to take the truck to the shop and have the code fixed this week. He was going to do it last week but never did. Cause it won't pass safety / emissions if it's not fixed

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    Taking the bed off shouldn't be to hard right?
    Nope, it's usually only held on by 4 bolts anyways I believe. Maybe a few other hooks or something too, but not too bad to remove.
    Last edited by RhinoZ24; 05-28-2013 at 09:54 PM.

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    Da Professuh Raptor05121's Avatar
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    I think Ryan is right. Just four carriage bolts and then the gas filler neck. You need two people, but it is MUCH easier than dropping the tank.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor05121 View Post
    I think Ryan is right. Just four carriage bolts and then the gas filler neck. You need two people, but it is MUCH easier than dropping the tank.
    Haha the only reason I know is Border Wars on National Geographic. They had to get to marijuana in the gas tank of a Ram 1500 and took off the bed to do it. I'm pretty sure it was only 4 bolts, I'm assuming it's almost the same for most trucks.

  7. #17
    Senior Member pockets's Avatar
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    Wth rhino?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pockets View Post
    Wth rhino?
    What?

  9. #19
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    I have never heard anyone say something negative about seafoam. Can you explain?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by masonic View Post
    I have never heard anyone say something negative about seafoam. Can you explain?
    Seafoam is useful as a cleaning agent, that's it. I've used it to clean an intake manifold when I was rebuilding an engine. It removes carbon buildup pretty well. But to put it down vac lines, brake booster lines, fuel tanks, and oil- you'll (read: RISK) mess something up. These engines were designed to run as-is. Ask Ford if its a good idea to stuff liquid down those lines. They and ever other automotive manufacturer will tell you no. The only thing that is supposed to go through a gas tank is gasoline. The only thing designed to go in an oil pan is oil. Same thing for vac lines- air only. If you suck it up a vac line, you risk hydrolocking the engine. Not to mention it will foul plugs, erode your piston rings, and also ruin your O2/cat converters (despite all the marketing by Seafoam saying its safe, I've got a $500 bill from Ford saying otherwise). I've used seafoam once, and it costs me over $500 to replace the O2 sensors and rear catalytic converters. Secondly, when do you introduce it to the internals of the engine, you change the stiochiometry since naphtha burns differently than 87 octane fuel. So you're risking pinging/predetonation. Now it WILL remove that carbon buildup you're trying to get to, but guess where it is going? Through the combustion chamber. Introduce a slag of carbon big enough, and you'll have a expensive paperweight in your truck. I've got a shelf of aviation maintenance publications, and part of one of them discusses fuel/engine additives such as Gum-Out, Seafoam, etc (aviation engines are A LOT more sensitive than automotive engines) and basically all of them are a no-no.

    Seafoam is a snake-oil that was introduced to take advantage of the lesser-informed automotive enthusiast. If you're going to do something, do it right. If you need to clean your intake, take it off the engine first. Your injectors can be cleaned using Techron which is used in Shell gasoline. If you have blow-by of your rings, its time to rehone your cylinders and re-ring your pistons. A simple $5 bottle of flammable substance with a lot of marketing isn't going to fix every problem on your vehicle.

    Disclaimer: The above writing is my opinion and mine only. I have met mechanics who love Seafoam and everything to do with it while others (myself) wouldn't run it through a weedeater bought from a yard sale. Like all other things found on the internet, take the above writing with a grain of salt.
    Last edited by Raptor05121; 05-28-2013 at 11:56 PM.
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