Thread: Scott's 2004 SuperCab Lariat 4x4

Getting these this week!!! 2010 XLT Chrome tow hooks

Those will look nice!

Installed!! They are a little bit smaller, but they still look beast!!!







putting this on today!

Looks good man

Sent from my phone using F150 App

Look's Great!!

Hellas FINALLY wired up (into the high beams with a relay):



Still need to fabricate a new bracket for them so they are easier to aim and sit more level. Also doing a 4500k HID conversion on them OR just throw in some LED H3 bulbs. Im doing the foglight mod this week so the fogs stay on with high beams. So now when I turn my high beams on, all my lights on the front will be on. Once the Hellas are converted, that will be BRIGHT!

AND picked up a new wax that is supposed to be some of the best longest lasting on the market:

well changed out the passenger side exhaust manifold Saturday and it was NOT fun

Well we got her done, 7 hours for the first time ever doing it, and you guys were RIGHT! it was a major PITA. Luckily we were 8 for 8 on the studs, none broken, they all actually looked really good (no rust) The culprit was the very back port on the passenger side, gasket fail. However, it got new everything, studs, manifold, gaskets, etc....

Had the inner fender fender liner out and top 4 studs out within 45 minutes. Bottom studs were a different story, you couldnt even see the front bottom two for the most part. plus you had to work blind behind the strut tower. Top starter bolt was a pain as well! Also for anyone attempting this, you BETTER have access to a Fine Tooth Snap On Rachet that has moving head or you will be cussing the studs

Steps we took:

1) Jack truck up
2) remove tire and inner fender
3) Start removing studs. Back two can be removed with a ratchet, front tow, use a 13mm wrence (gear wrench would be great)
4) Once you remove top 4, time for the fun to begin.
5) unbolt flange from bottom of manifold
6) remover converters if possible (i had to cut the pipe right after last converter and slide the converter section down because the only path for the manifold to come out is the hole where flange is. Having it rewelded this morning.
7) Remove starter (top bolt sucks, having a second person viewing fron up top is a must so you can have them guide you where the darn bolt it
8) start loosining the bottom studs by whatever means possible and PRAY you dont break a bottom one, or you MAY BE pulling engine.
9) take the big engine mount nut off and jack engine up as far as it will let you
10) fish out manifold best you can

11) clean matin surface up good, and put all the studs in BUT the bottom front two or three (clearance issues)
12) once all studs are in, place new gaskets on the studs, the studs will hold them
13) fish in the new manifold and place on studs, then put a few nuts on a few of the studs to hold in place
14) place remaining two or three studs in remaining holes
15) once all studs are in, tighten nuts on studssnug, then starting from front to back tighten top and bottom at same time (one person up top and one underneath)
16) let engine down put engine mount nut back on
17) put starter back on
18) mount up converter section you moved and bolt up the flange
19) put inner fender liner in, bolt up wheel
20) Crank up and listen to a tick free exhaust!!

putting those bottom front two studs back in and tightening the nuts on them SUCKED

truck going under the knife



As you can see, I had a nice gasket failure. There were rust deposits on the mating surface of the exhaust manifold on the rear port. looks like they pushed up the gasket and allowed the gasket to bend under the extreme heat.



also, you see, the studs were in excellent condition, but we put new everything in. these were the top studs

ive got those same tow hooks!

Preston, they came off a truck EXACTLY like yours, same color, trim, and all