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  1. #11
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    Ryan
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfie View Post
    U can also just swap the pulley. That's the cheapest route. But still not cheap.

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    Will that solve the problem?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Grasso View Post
    You'll b better off just swapping the pully like Alfie said. I had an upgrade I had a Dual batt kit with a bigger alt. it was a bunch of overkill. Headlights were nice and bright tho lol. I wasn't really killin amps with all my accessories. I'll bet I could have done fine with a single set up. I think it was 285? Been awhile home slice lol
    Well that's not too expensive though.

  2. #12
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    alfredo
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    Yes as it will allow the alternator to spin down at its own rate until the pulley speed matches the shaft speed.


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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfie View Post
    Yes as it will allow the alternator to spin down at its own rate until the pulley speed matches the shaft speed.

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    Awesome, thanks Alfie!! I'll look into finding the best price.

  4. #14
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    Ok so first I'm going to try belt dressing to see if it does anything. If not, that pulley isn't punched on the alternator correct, it has a nut/bolt holding it on? Because the Motorcraft pulley is like $16 off of Rockauto.com and I just want to make sure I can remove the old one first. It beats buying a reman Motorcraft 110 Amp for $250 plus a $75 core charge, or an upgraded 130 Amp for $230 plus the $75 core charge for sure.
    Last edited by RhinoZ24; 04-08-2014 at 12:51 PM.

  5. #15
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    Anyone know? Is the pulley punched onto the alternator or held on by a bolt?

  6. #16
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    alfredo
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    There is a special tool to remove the pulley. I'm sure there is a youtube video on it. Everything is on youtube.


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  7. #17
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    Ok and my dad mentioned something I hadn't thought of. How can the pulley go bad because the bearing is inside the alternator and the pulley is attached to the shaft that goes into the bearing. No way for the pulley to really go bad. So should I just replace the whole alternator then? Or did you mean the tensioner pulley? Because that one has a bearing in it. Just wondering because I don't see how the pulley can be causing the squealing if it's attached to a shaft and doesn't have a way of slipping like with a bearing.

  8. #18
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    alfredo
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    The noise is not a result of a faulty component. It's a result of a bad design. This is a normal characteristic of that design. We get them in all the Time. U can out a belt on and have a temper arty fix but the issue is the sudden change in speed will always be there. The pulley is a fix ford did later to prevent this.

    Also your pulley will come off easy. Just remove the nut and it comes off the tool is for the removal of a clutch pulley. Sorry wasn't thing straight when I posted that.


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  9. #19
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    I'm just having a hard time figuring how the pulley will fix that problem unless the shaft that goes into the bearing is attached to the pulley permanently. I'm not trying to argue or anything, I just don't understand is all. And if I do remove it I don't need the tool then?

  10. #20
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    alfredo
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    The shaft and pulley are attached together with the nut. It's a tapered shaft and spin at same speed all the time.

    Correct tool is only to remove the pulley.


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