Upgrades

**Jersey_Joe** · 04-18-2013, 08:19 AM

Originally Posted by Raptor05121

That wasn't because his new one was more powerful, it was because his old one probably had a faulty voltage regulator. If he bought a new one, same amperage, it would have the same effect. Most trucks come stock with a 95A and you can upgrade to a 130A (I have done so last week). However, alternators RARELY ever get anywhere near their max output. After starting the vehicle, they may jump up to 20, maybe 30A to charge the battery back up. With a stock radio and lights, you'll be lucky to pull over 15A on everyday driving. I have over 10,000 lumens of light coming off my truck and my stock 95A handled it for 15 years. Even if you got a sub with some 15's new speakers, tweeters, etc. A stock alternator is fine enough for that too. What you want to change is the big 3 wires to 00 gauge (battery to ground, alternator to battery, and battery to radio) or maybe upgrade to a Yellow or Red top Optima dry-cell.

Alex. Would the blue marine optima b a bad idea? If so why? Just curious and I'm sure u know lol

**Raptor05121** · 04-18-2013, 08:30 AM

The only thing I know about the Blue Marine is that it should be a deep-cycle battery. Meaning that while normal batteries will get the infamous "memory drain effect" from dipping them to 0% charge, deep cycles are meant for it. So it would be neat just to have, making jumping the truck easier, but there might be something else out there different, like its core charge voltage (cars are 12.8v, airplanes are 14.2v, maybe boats are the same?).

**Jersey_Joe** · 04-18-2013, 10:16 AM

So it would work and b ok?

**RhinoZ24** · 04-18-2013, 11:32 AM

Originally Posted by Raptor05121

That wasn't because his new one was more powerful, it was because his old one probably had a faulty voltage regulator. If he bought a new one, same amperage, it would have the same effect. Most trucks come stock with a 95A and you can upgrade to a 130A (I have done so last week). However, alternators RARELY ever get anywhere near their max output. After starting the vehicle, they may jump up to 20, maybe 30A to charge the battery back up. With a stock radio and lights, you'll be lucky to pull over 15A on everyday driving. I have over 10,000 lumens of light coming off my truck and my stock 95A handled it for 15 years. Even if you got a sub with some 15's new speakers, tweeters, etc. A stock alternator is fine enough for that too. What you want to change is the big 3 wires to 00 gauge (battery to ground, alternator to battery, and battery to radio) or maybe upgrade to a Yellow or Red top Optima dry-cell.

Thanks for clearing that up, I've been trying to find the output of my altenator to see if it could handle some upgrades I've been looking to do, of which you named lol. So thank you Alex.

**DarkFox** · 04-18-2013, 03:17 PM

Damn, he really is the professor, isn't he? Haha. Fantastic, thank you, Alex.

**RhinoZ24** · 04-18-2013, 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by DarkFox

Damn, he really is the professor, isn't he? Haha. Fantastic, thank you, Alex.

Yes he is, he knows just about all there is to know about these trucks lol.

**DarkFox** · 04-19-2013, 08:27 PM

Good to know, haha. Every forum needs a few of those.

**lone ranger** · 05-21-2013, 10:31 PM

hey i got a 84 f150 with a 300 i6 and a 3 on the tree and i wanna put a 302 in it what would i have to do?

**BFEB** · 05-22-2013, 04:11 AM

Just put the new motor in and make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up or plugged off. The bell housing is the same. We did it in a buddies truck a few years back. Surprisingly easy..... For a motor swap that is.

**lone ranger** · 05-22-2013, 03:51 PM

My problem is i changed distributor plugs wires coil vaccine lines fuel filter and fuel pump and the 300 still spudders when i give it throttle.any suggestions?

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