Somewhere I read and saw video where I guy just used the actuator. I ordered three thinking I would automate my tool box too. Anyhow, I looked at how to mount the actuator without the pop and lock mechanism and ordered the pop and lock. Has anyone else done this. I'll let you know what I run into. They show the wires under the door plate. I am wondering if us regular cabs will have the wire there since there are no back doors for it to go to?
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Thread: Pop and lock
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11-20-2014, 06:33 PM #1Banned
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Pop and lock
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11-20-2014, 06:53 PM #2Chief Moderator
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If ur talking about a key fob for u tool box. I've seen one. But I only know that it exists. Not sure about how they wore the doors. If it's a reg cab. I don't believe that it is there
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11-20-2014, 07:28 PM #3Banned
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I think I need to remove the kick panel. It's pretty basic. Running the wires probably takes the most time--especially finding the correct ones. I never lock the tool box or the tailgate--too lazy; so it should save stolen stuff someday. To clear up: I am not looking for a separate fob for the tool box. I'm just going to mount door lock actuators on the lock mechs.
Originally Posted by Joe Grasso
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11-20-2014, 08:13 PM #4Chief Moderator
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Roger that
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11-22-2014, 09:13 PM #5Banned
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Originally Posted by Joe Grasso
Update:
So I was poking the wire bundle in the kick plate of the passenger side looking for the lock and unlock wires. Didn't find them. Struck out under the dash too. Then I found one by pulling the rubber off the wires that go to the door, but only one. So I got on the internet and looked up the wire colors. There are lots of opinions and apparently pop and lock isn't all that helpful. I found a guy who said his was the light blue and green stripe and tan with a grey stripe. Yep. It should be all down hill now. I mounted the actuators inside the tool box too. The way the aluminum is folded over at the top of the box leaves enough room to close it too. The actuators stick out the top a little, but that leaves more room in the side trays. The only way the lock will turn is with the key; so I pulled the tumblers out of the lock. I suppose anyone could force it with any key now, but it takes more effort than having it unlocked (like me) all the time. Plus if it ever fails my key is a back up too.
Anyhow, now that I found the stupid wires, the rest of the job should go in less than a half-hour. I am going to put a hole in the box, run the wire for the tool box and when the pop and lock gets here or before, I will splice underneath for the wires to the tailgate. I figure the whole job is less than $100. People complained that the pop and lock wire was thin, so I ordered something a little heavier.Last edited by RexReid; 11-22-2014 at 09:16 PM. Reason: added info
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11-23-2014, 02:19 PM #6Banned
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The tool box locks and unlocks with the truck now. If I had that job to do again, it'd take a half hour. Heck, I might even start a business doing it. Remove the kick plate, quick connect two wires, run the wire through the rubber gromet, run the wire into the box, hook up the actuators and mount them with 2 screws. Sweeeeet.
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11-23-2014, 02:20 PM #7Chief Moderator
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That's awesome!!! Can u make a video of that? Love to see that!
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11-23-2014, 03:32 PM #8Banned
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I'll do it for you...I can just take a pic of the actuator hooked up--I'm not all that techy. Originally Posted by Joe Grasso
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11-23-2014, 10:19 PM #9
I really like this idea, nice work.
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11-24-2014, 07:51 PM #10Banned
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here are the actuators, wire and connectors I used. You could proabably get the 20 gauge wire and connectors anywhere and probably for less. I ordered all of the stuff at once.
I will get a pic, but I mounted the actuators at the very top of the box where they fold over the metal. I used 1-1/2" sheet metal screws which were perfect on my box because they didn't polk through. The screws threaded into the actuators, so I pressed hard into the aluminum and went pack and forth until it seated. I used the curved end of the rod with the stop on the end on the lock mechanism and curved the other end into a hook for the actuator. I tested the actuator for making sure the lock did what I wanted and then mounted the actuator last. That way I didn't have to be perfect on the rod length.
I think the total on materials was under $20. Simple pleasures are the best!
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Evelyn