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meppwc
04-16-2013, 06:47 AM
I have a 92 F150, 300 inline with 110,000 miles on it
Other than typical maintenance items, I have only had to replace a starter and alternator

I am thinking that in the future maybe electronics may need to be replaced (distributer, coil, etc) and am wondering if going with factory parts would be the best or if there are better options available that may yield to better efficiency or power

Suggestions?

BFEB
04-16-2013, 09:32 AM
There's definitely some options to upgrade the electrical system. Better distributor, hotter coil, etc

RhinoZ24
04-16-2013, 11:01 AM
Ford parts are designed for your truck and work the best with it. Some people, like me lol, like to keep our trucks as OEM as possible. But yes, some other brands will probably wield you more power than factory parts. It's all about your preference and what you like better.

DarkFox
04-16-2013, 03:30 PM
I'm actually interested in hearing some other responses as well because I have a '95 with similar mileage and the legendary 300ci.
Meppwc, when you changed out your alternator, did you go OEM or aftermarket? Did you have a significant increase in power from your last one?

lee reece
04-16-2013, 10:28 PM
I'm actually interested in hearing some other responses as well because I have a '95 with similar mileage and the legendary 300ci.
Meppwc, when you changed out your alternator, did you go OEM or aftermarket? Did you have a significant increase in power from your last one?

Alternators are sized to a certain amperages. Usually a stamp on the side of the unit itself .

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DarkFox
04-17-2013, 02:57 AM
So is it okay for amperage overkill when selecting one? I just want to have a lot of power available. It won't blow anything?

BFEB
04-17-2013, 06:22 AM
No you'll be fine with a higher amp alternator. This is why there are fuses for everything. The fuse only allows the device to pull a certain amount of amps and when is try's for more the fuse pops and severs the electrical connection.
Some vehicles with heavy load circumstances (tons of lights, big stereos, etc) run two alternators and in a lot of instances multiple batteries in a series to power everything without running out of "juice"

lee reece
04-17-2013, 04:57 PM
So is it okay for amperage overkill when selecting one? I just want to have a lot of power available. It won't blow anything?

It shouldn't blow anything if system is running good that I no of. You adding some stuff to the truck? Why you want bigger alt?

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Sometimes you can get some interference with radio but not usually bad Most don't ever notice.

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DarkFox
04-17-2013, 11:16 PM
No you'll be fine with a higher amp alternator. This is why there are fuses for everything. The fuse only allows the device to pull a certain amount of amps and when is try's for more the fuse pops and severs the electrical connection.
Some vehicles with heavy load circumstances (tons of lights, big stereos, etc) run two alternators and in a lot of instances multiple batteries in a series to power everything without running out of "juice"

Well that makes plenty sense, thanks. I don't think I'm going to need two alternators, but I didn't even know you can run them in series. Multiple batteries make sense, too.



It shouldn't blow anything if system is running good that I no of. You adding some stuff to the truck? Why you want bigger alt?

Sent from my iPhone using F150 App

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Sometimes you can get some interference with radio but not usually bad Most don't ever notice.

Sent from my iPhone using F150 App

I am going to be getting a better sound system and a few cab lights, nothing too fancy. I've just heard how great of an experience it was when someone I knew changed his alternator and received a bunch of power. Radio was louder, gauges were brighter, even brighter headlights.

Raptor05121
04-18-2013, 07:57 AM
That wasn't because his new one was more powerful, it was because his old one probably had a faulty voltage regulator. If he bought a new one, same amperage, it would have the same effect. Most trucks come stock with a 95A and you can upgrade to a 130A (I have done so last week). However, alternators RARELY ever get anywhere near their max output. After starting the vehicle, they may jump up to 20, maybe 30A to charge the battery back up. With a stock radio and lights, you'll be lucky to pull over 15A on everyday driving. I have over 10,000 lumens of light coming off my truck and my stock 95A handled it for 15 years. Even if you got a sub with some 15's new speakers, tweeters, etc. A stock alternator is fine enough for that too. What you want to change is the big 3 wires to 00 gauge (battery to ground, alternator to battery, and battery to radio) or maybe upgrade to a Yellow or Red top Optima dry-cell.

Jersey_Joe
04-18-2013, 08:19 AM
That wasn't because his new one was more powerful, it was because his old one probably had a faulty voltage regulator. If he bought a new one, same amperage, it would have the same effect. Most trucks come stock with a 95A and you can upgrade to a 130A (I have done so last week). However, alternators RARELY ever get anywhere near their max output. After starting the vehicle, they may jump up to 20, maybe 30A to charge the battery back up. With a stock radio and lights, you'll be lucky to pull over 15A on everyday driving. I have over 10,000 lumens of light coming off my truck and my stock 95A handled it for 15 years. Even if you got a sub with some 15's new speakers, tweeters, etc. A stock alternator is fine enough for that too. What you want to change is the big 3 wires to 00 gauge (battery to ground, alternator to battery, and battery to radio) or maybe upgrade to a Yellow or Red top Optima dry-cell.

Alex. Would the blue marine optima b a bad idea? If so why? Just curious and I'm sure u know lol

Raptor05121
04-18-2013, 08:30 AM
The only thing I know about the Blue Marine is that it should be a deep-cycle battery. Meaning that while normal batteries will get the infamous "memory drain effect" from dipping them to 0% charge, deep cycles are meant for it. So it would be neat just to have, making jumping the truck easier, but there might be something else out there different, like its core charge voltage (cars are 12.8v, airplanes are 14.2v, maybe boats are the same?).

Jersey_Joe
04-18-2013, 10:16 AM
So it would work and b ok?

RhinoZ24
04-18-2013, 11:32 AM
That wasn't because his new one was more powerful, it was because his old one probably had a faulty voltage regulator. If he bought a new one, same amperage, it would have the same effect. Most trucks come stock with a 95A and you can upgrade to a 130A (I have done so last week). However, alternators RARELY ever get anywhere near their max output. After starting the vehicle, they may jump up to 20, maybe 30A to charge the battery back up. With a stock radio and lights, you'll be lucky to pull over 15A on everyday driving. I have over 10,000 lumens of light coming off my truck and my stock 95A handled it for 15 years. Even if you got a sub with some 15's new speakers, tweeters, etc. A stock alternator is fine enough for that too. What you want to change is the big 3 wires to 00 gauge (battery to ground, alternator to battery, and battery to radio) or maybe upgrade to a Yellow or Red top Optima dry-cell.

Thanks for clearing that up, I've been trying to find the output of my altenator to see if it could handle some upgrades I've been looking to do, of which you named lol. So thank you Alex.

DarkFox
04-18-2013, 03:17 PM
Damn, he really is the professor, isn't he? Haha. Fantastic, thank you, Alex.

RhinoZ24
04-18-2013, 03:50 PM
Damn, he really is the professor, isn't he? Haha. Fantastic, thank you, Alex.

Yes he is, he knows just about all there is to know about these trucks lol.

DarkFox
04-19-2013, 08:27 PM
Good to know, haha. Every forum needs a few of those.

lone ranger
05-21-2013, 10:31 PM
hey i got a 84 f150 with a 300 i6 and a 3 on the tree and i wanna put a 302 in it what would i have to do?

BFEB
05-22-2013, 04:11 AM
Just put the new motor in and make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up or plugged off. The bell housing is the same. We did it in a buddies truck a few years back. Surprisingly easy..... For a motor swap that is.

lone ranger
05-22-2013, 03:51 PM
My problem is i changed distributor plugs wires coil vaccine lines fuel filter and fuel pump and the 300 still spudders when i give it throttle.any suggestions?

BFEB
05-22-2013, 08:36 PM
Clean the carb? Run some sea foam through it. 1/4 in the carb and the rest in the fuel tank. Jets might be plugged

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Did you check the timing after the distributor change?

lone ranger
05-22-2013, 09:17 PM
Yes only thing didn't change is ignition control module on side of carb

BFEB
05-23-2013, 04:42 AM
Have you checked the fuel pressure?

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Does it seem like its missing? Or just not getting enough fuel?

lone ranger
05-23-2013, 05:13 AM
I can cover top of carb with my hand and it will idle fine

BFEB
05-23-2013, 06:49 AM
Did you adjust A/F on carb? Sounds like you're running to lean if you block off the air and it evens out.

Jersey_Joe
05-23-2013, 07:17 AM
Agreed

lone ranger
05-23-2013, 02:02 PM
I dontknow how to adjust it on this 1bbl carb

RhinoZ24
05-23-2013, 02:15 PM
There should be a little screw somewhere on the front of it. You adjust that screw and it adjusts the A/F ratio.

BFEB
05-23-2013, 02:44 PM
http://youtu.be/KmMpNx7mAVY

lone ranger
05-23-2013, 05:33 PM
On the video he just idles it up i think my egress has a hole in diaphram

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Egr i mean

lone ranger
06-02-2013, 07:03 PM
Ok can anyone tell me were the three wire from the alternator on my 84 4.9 go? One to battery and one to volt reg. But Dnt know were the third goes.its nt a ground

judaspriest75
08-09-2013, 09:45 PM
Maybe to the starter. That would be a good place to check.