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View Full Version : Brake job gone bad. Need ideas...



formerflyboy
08-28-2015, 11:16 AM
So I decided to save some money and replace the front rotors and pads on my 2011 4x4 Lariat. I have the Haynes manual and read online.

Got everything apart fine. The rotors and caliper brackets went on fine as far as I can tell. I put the new pads in. This is where I think I ran into trouble. I got the ends of each pad into the metal clips and had to persuade them with a mallet. The calipers went on after using a C-clamp to push the pistons in (I did open the master brake reservoir) but still took some doing. Finally got them on and tightened everything up to torque specs. Remounted the tires, pumped the brakes a few times. I did notice that at this point the brake pedal was mushy and went to the floor several times then wouldn't go down at all. I let it sit a couple of minutes and the pedal was moving again and has moved easily since.

On the road there was no noise at first but felt lime the brakes were dragging g a little. Made a left turn and started getting a metal on metal sound from the left front. Moved the wheel back and forth a few times and it stopped. Was quiet when going straight but started again after another left turn. I quit after a few more seconds and has been quiet since.

Got up this morning to make the 20 mile drive to work. Noticed immediately that the brakes were slightly engaged with no pedal application. No noise coming from the brakes at this point. Confirmed an issue when my indicated instant mpg was at 16 I stead of it's normal 19 at a 60mph cruise.

When I got to work I put my hand near the front wheels and could feel the heat. Also noticed discoloration on the outer inch or so of the left rotor.

So any ideas what I did wrong? Something I was trying to figure out when I was doing this was what, exactly, pulls the pads off the rotors when the pedal is released? It seems that when I put the pads in the caliper bracket that they were practically right on the pad so when the calipers squeeze the pads against the rotors to stop what causes them to not be against the rotor when you release the pedal since the pads are not connected to the calipers?

Could improper torque on the caliper mounting bolts and/or caliper bracket bolts cause anything?

If I can't figure out the issue I'll have to take it to the shop on Monday and have them look since I'm likely to end up with a brake fire.

Thanks in advance.

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Ford Fan#1
08-28-2015, 11:54 AM
Did you compress the caliper completely? And brakes dragging.... Maybe some air in the lines? They might need blead. I know that when my brake line went my brakes drug ( frying them and turns out the mechanic that replaced the line only blead one caliper ) after changing the pads and rotors and bleeding them all ( flushing the system ) that stopped the brakes dragging. But since yours is 7 years newer that might not be the issue. But I would still have them blead just to check that off

formerflyboy
08-28-2015, 12:32 PM
Would they still need bled even though I didn't remove the line? I opened up the reservoir so that the fluid had somewhere to go when I compressed the calipers and I only compressed them enough to get them on.

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Grabber70Mach
08-28-2015, 12:35 PM
Pads probably put on in the reverse order. https://youtu.be/sXGcgUezqlY

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Never Argue With A Moron– They Will Drag You Down To Their Level, Then Beat You With Experience

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formerflyboy
08-28-2015, 01:11 PM
Wow. What he described in that video is exactly what was happening. I have to put 20 more miles on them to get it home tomorrow but definitely pulling them apart. I didn't even notice if there were "Garfield" ears on any of the pads. Thanks! Hopefully the 40 miles total that I'll have put on them won't destroy my rotors. Would suck to have to buy another pair.

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Ford Fan#1
08-28-2015, 01:38 PM
Wow. What he described in that video is exactly what was happening. I have to put 20 more miles on them to get it home tomorrow but definitely pulling them apart. I didn't even notice if there were "Garfield" ears on any of the pads. Thanks! Hopefully the 40 miles total that I'll have put on them won't destroy my rotors. Would suck to have to buy another pair. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk forgot that would do that as well. My dad did that to my big brother's explorer.. But the wrong side of the pad!

formerflyboy
08-29-2015, 06:21 PM
Ok. I've confirmed that I had two problems. The first was solved in the video posted earlier. I had, in fact, put the pads with ears on the outside. My second problem was a manufacturing defect. I pulled my left front apart again and compared the new pad to the old one and found that the new pad was a bit taller and would thus not fit. I took it to AutoZone (using Duralast Gold) and had them pull another set and the set they opened was the right size.

Got the left front back together and went to do the right and what happens? The soft chrome looking metal on one of the lugs flattens out so I can't get it off. Tightened the other 5 back up and drove the 20 miles home. MPG was back up to almost 18 but still a slight drag on the right side and it was still pretty warm when I got home.

So now I need to know if anybody has an idea of how to get that bloody flattened lug off. The others are all starting to flatten a bit and I'm about to just take them all off and replace them with plain lug nuts without the chrome tops.

Are those chrome top ones just a hollow cap that I could puncture and tear off? I can't believe the whole lug is that soft crap.

Thanks (again) in advance.

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formerflyboy
08-30-2015, 06:18 PM
Problem solved.

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Grabber70Mach
08-31-2015, 05:47 AM
Glad to hear.

From Infinity and beyond

Never Argue With A Moron– They Will Drag You Down To Their Level, Then Beat You With Experience

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.