Change the fuel filter?

[RhinoZ24]

So the owner's manual suggests you change the fuel filter every 30,000 miles for my 05. I'm currently at 59,7xx miles and as I bought the truck used, have no clue as to when the previous owner changed the filter, if they did at all. I'm planning on changing it and want to do it myself, but as instead of being in the engine compartment as I've only had experience with (carbuerated engines), it's right after the fuel tank and you have to disconnect the fuel lines to change it. So my question is, do you recommend a dealer changing it, or can someone tell me the proper way to change it so I don't f*** my fuel system.

[Raptor05121]

It takes about five minutes and the only tool you need is a special fuel-release clip that you cant rent from AutoZone for about $10, which is refundable.

1.) Buy new filter and rent the fuel rail clips (I believe they are 5/16")
2.) Locate fuel filter (along drivers side frame rail, should be under bed/cab joint)
3.) Optional: Release fuel pressure via schrader valve in engine compartment.
4.) If not, lay down to the opposite side of the fuel filter, when you remove the fuel clips, it WILL spray and about 2-3 cups of gas will fall
5.) Pull from c-clamp, reinstall new filter, reattach fuel lines
6.) Turn key and let fuel pump re-pressurize fuel lines before starting (5-10 seconds)

[D Roberts]

That simple as stated above^ did my 06 and its simple

[RhinoZ24]

Awesome, thanks guys! Question though, what is the fuel rail clip for, what does it clip/do? Btw, anyone know if the truck is programmed to have the check engine light come on because it's almost at 60,000 miles, just as a reminder, because mine came on today, I have 59,780 miles on it. Or is it probably just an oxygen sensor that needs replaced as it's the emission control warning thing? I don't think it's my new exhaust I put on as it's been on for about 2 weeks and around 200 miles. Any suggestions? And it's not any of the suggestions from the owner's manual, ran out of gas, loose gas cap, water in fuel, etc.

[Raptor05121]

Fuel filter: Here is a thorough explanation. You have two clips that lock the filter into the fuel lines. One upstream and one downstream. They are like safety locks to prevent the real release mechanism from undoing. You remove those by hand and then slide the tool inside the fuel line hookup to disengage the line from the filter.

http://www.fordf150.net/howto/fuelfilter.php

CEL: Only comes on when the engine sensor kicks something. Nothing is "programmed" to come on at certain mileage or anything like that. There are about ~2,000 CEL codes, guessing its an O2 sensor is a 1/2000 chance. Be safe and either buy a Scan Tool (you can get them cheap and they are nice to have) or find a friend who has one OR go to AutoZone and they will scan for you. WRITE (again, WRITE) down the code and come back here for diagnosis. IIRC, AutoZone no longer "clears" them, they only read them.

It could very well be your new exhaust. Go get that CEL scanned.

[RhinoZ24]

Will do, and thank you very much, only problem is I won't have time to go in till Wednesday with my finals schedule, hopefully my truck doesn't break down in the next 2 days. As of right now it still drives fine, don't notice anything odd.

[Raptor05121]

CELs are rarely anything bad. It could be a simple misfire or just a vacuum leak.

[RhinoZ24]

I hope it's something simple and easy to fix.

[RhinoZ24]

Got it scanned, turned out to be the EGR vavle, so I have to wait till Wednesday to get a new one in, hopefully that'll take care of the whole problem. Not certain what the code was, the shop I took it to din't tell me, but I believe it was P0401, insufficient flow.

[Raptor05121]

That's why I said write it down. Shops like that like to scan the code and sell you parts to what they think will fix it.

P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient Detected

You might want to start by checking the DPFE vac hoses going to the EGR. If they get dry-rotted and/or clogged with carbon, it can set off this code. Take it apart and clean to your hearts content. Check the brittleness of all your hoses. Clear the CEL, and if it comes back, I'd change it (but ONLY it) because I think they are around $30-50.

[RhinoZ24]

No, I trust the shop, my family has been going there for years, they're very honest with their work and usually give us a great deal on the labor and parts. They were going to test and see if it was the EGR itself, and if it wasn't they aren't charging me for the part or labor. They do really good work and are very professional, so I trust them, they won't f*** me over. It's the same shop I went to when I needed my front hub bearings replaced, all one part connected to the brake rotors (terrible design on Ford's part) and they found a conversion kit to make it 2 seperate parts so if one needed to be replaced again, I woulnd't have to replace the other and it would save me money. But like I said, they won't screw me over and they just said that is what they believe is the cause, I'll find out the exact code for sure and let you know when they get the part tomorrow and test it.

[Raptor05121]

When it comes down to putting bread on the table, every man will fend for himself. Meaning if he has to do pointless things and charge for it, he will. Where I'm getting at is unless he is doing it for free, I'd do it myself. The things he will do to "test" that sensor are things you can do yourself. in a matter of minutes.

In the 15 years I've owned my truck its been in a shop only 3 times, for things I am unable to do- engine swap, new transmission, and A/C recharge.

I need to start charging for advice. I've easily saved people a combined $10,000 over on the other forums I'm on. One guy went in and spent $950 chasing a vac leak over a month. I jumped in and he found the broken vac line in 5 minutes. He was about to spend another $800 and replace the WHOLE upper intake manifold.

[RhinoZ24]

I understand that and you have a good point. I'm not a truck expert yet though, I'm still learning and appreciate all the advice I get, especially yours. What you should do is open up your own shop, you'd make a killing.

[RhinoZ24]

It was the P0401 code, insufficient flow. They showed me, the valve was stuck shut, non-responsive so they replaced it for me, not too much damage. Now I've got another problem, my message center where it displays the milage, direction, and exterior temp. etc. is supposed to have a background light so you can see it, when I got it back it wasn't illuminating, didn't notice it till I was already home. Do you think they accidently disconnected a fuse or something, or is it common for the light to burn out?

[Raptor05121]

This is a VERY common problem. Nothing burns out, since they are SMT5050 style LEDs, but rather a resistor that comes apart due to a cold solder joint. It is an easy fix:

http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/373598-intermittent-odometer-repair.html

[RhinoZ24]

Awesome, thanks again! Good thing I finished my finals today, I'll start on this on Monday and order my fuel filter and the bracket for my exhaust too so I can get that all fixed up.

[RhinoZ24]

About to order my fuel filter and have a quick question, do you recommend the OEM Motorcraft filter, or do you have another brand that you use and trust Alex?

[Raptor05121]

I always get Motorcraft whenever possible, but they all meet the same requirements

[RhinoZ24]

Alright I'll just buy the Motorcraft one and get the replacement bracket for my exhaust at the same time. Thanks!

[RhinoZ24]

Filter and bracket came in today, and the filter was pretty simple, all good now.

[Raptor05121]

excellent.

[RhinoZ24]

Indeed, thanks for the tips!